The unexplainable attraction of the ocean. Being outdoors and immersing myself in the fresh and cold. It doesn’t matter if I have to be there before dawn. No thoughts on what I have to do apart from just going. Suited up I stand here on my own. Amidst the elements, sun, wind, rain, clouds.. With the cold sand between my toes, I take a deep breath as I watch the breaking waves in front of me. With my leash firmly tied to my ankle I take my first steps into the ocean. Strong currents and wild splashing white wash welcome me while I wait for that brief moment of stillness in between the sets. Further and further, I walk into the ocean, until that moment of silence finally arrives. It’s my signal to get on my board and start paddling as fast as I can. Powerful strokes following the ocean’s rhythm of blue, grey and green colors. Focused and determined to get out back. A wave crashes in front of me and a big boiling mass of water is thrown towards me. While I gasp for breath I try to get hold of my board. I tell myself to stay focused and start paddling before the next set will come rolling in. This recurring paddle battle can be quite challenging and yet I embrace it: session after session. Moments later I manage to leave the roaring shore break behind me only to be welcomed by a world of complete tranquility. Sitting on my board I watch a traveling set of waves on the horizon. Once I found it difficult to keep my balance. Now nothing feels more natural than this. Here I am. This is where I belong. The feeling of being in control and yet…at the same time this complete humility, in awe of nature's sheer beauty and power. Nothing comes close to this feeling of complete surrender to Neptune’s dictates. The swell is building. Poetry from interplay of wind and waves. A different poem every time. I try to understand and learn from them. As I am lifted and dropped by sets of waves it feels like playing with gravity. Weightless for an instant followed by the roaring sounds of the breaking wave behind you. Continuously on the edge of excitement. There! I point my finger to what looks like a mere ripple on the horizon. That is the one!
I follow it, turn my board, lay down and start to paddle. Looking over my shoulder to check my wave one final time. That moment when your focused paddle turns into a glide, faster and faster. My body tightens by the rush of adrenaline. Feeling the force of the wave as it starts to lift me. I push myself up and then…No thoughts on what I have to do apart from just going. Suited up I stand here on my own. Amidst the elements. Everything for that one feeling.
Written by Neeke Scheers